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[IMG: What We’re Reading, 2026 vol. 1]
[H2] What We’re Reading, 2026 vol. 1
Escape Route
So far this year, we’ve gotten a glimpse into the mind of Reinhold Messner, let Jeremy Collins’ words and sketches transport us around the world and adventured with the Explorer’s Club. Perhaps you’ll be inspired to pick up a copy of Against the Wind, Eventually a Sequoia or Letters from the Edge while we’re busy at work on Alpinist 94. Happy reading!Read Now ›

[IMG: Finding Solace in Small Things]
[H3] Finding Solace in Small Things
Editor’s Note, Features, The Sharp End
In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 93, Derek Franz celebrates the humble value of small backwater places that can offer us much more than what meets the eye. He writes: “In recent months, a cluster of humble boulders near a small town where I grew up has given me solace. As a teenager I couldn’t wait to escape that quiet, dusty town. I was unaware of the boulders and so many other things nearby. Now, whenever I have a few hours on a clear ‘winter’ day, I drive half an hour to return to a place I once loathed….…
[IMG: The First Free Ascent of Kama Sutra]
[H3] The First Free Ascent of Kama Sutra
Features, First Ascent, Off Belay
In this Off Belay story from Alpinist 92, Henry Barber shares a memorable moment from his historic trip to Australia in 1975. After completing the first free ascent of the offwidth roof crack Kama Sutra, he finds himself in a pinch with the real climax of the day yet to come. Barber writes: “I had decided to drop out of a respected business school when I boarded a plane to Australia in 1975. I’d already taken a year and a half off, which was fine with my dad, but quitting now meant that future education would be on my nickel.…
Current Issue
[H2] Alpinist 93 | Spring 2026
Cover: Connor Herson works through the “pogo” crux on Drifter’s Escape in Sḵwx̱wú7mesh (Squamish). Herson completed the first free ascent of the route in July and proposed a grade of 5.15a—meaning it likely consists of some of the hardest trad climbing in the world. Christian Adam
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[H2] Mountain Standards gear reviews
[IMG: New and Improved Wild Country Friends: Clip With Ease While Cruxing Out ]
[H3] New and Improved Wild Country Friends: Clip With Ease While Cruxing Out
Wild Country has made some useful adjustments to their Friends including extendable slings and extra grooves on the lobes. Katie Griffith tested these new Friends over the winter in Joshua Tree and Red Rocks and found the extendable slings using Flow Cord to be noticeably more durable than the previously equipped Dyneema slings.Read Review ›
More Reviews
[IMG: PrimaLoft Gold, Silver, and Black: 100% Recycled and High Warmth-to-Weight Ratios]
[H3] PrimaLoft Gold, Silver, and Black: 100% Recycled and High Warmth-to-Weight Ratios
[IMG: Black Diamond’s Solution Guide Harness: Bringing Comfort Back Into Focus]
[H3] Black Diamond’s Solution Guide Harness: Bringing Comfort Back Into Focus
[IMG: Mammut’s Eiger Nordwand Pro SO Hooded Jacket and Pants: Versatile Mountain Crushers]
[H3] Mammut’s Eiger Nordwand Pro SO Hooded Jacket and Pants: Versatile Mountain Crushers
[H2] Features
[IMG: Off the Shelf 2025: Alpinist’s Year in Reading]
[H3] Off the Shelf 2025: Alpinist’s Year in Reading
Alpinist
|
December 28, 2025
This year, Sonnie Trotter brought us back to 2006, Sḵwx̱wú7mesh (Squamish), as his fingers flexed against steep granite on the first free ascent of Cobra Crack. We stood next to Mimi Zieman in a whiteout as she waited for her teammates on Chomolungma (Everest) in 1988. Lisa Roderick gave us an intimate look at Denali’s…Read Now ›
[IMG: High Places]
[H4] High Places
In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 92, Derek Franz writes of his experience climbing in the Swiss Alps with The North Face team last September and learning about everything that went into developing the Advanced Mountain Kit Summit Series 2.0.Read Now ›
[IMG: The Wall of Walls]
[H4] The Wall of Walls
In this On Belay story from Alpinist 91, Will Gadd shares the details of how he and Kirk Mauthner uncovered some of the best ice climbs of their lives close to their homes in Canada. The pair spent three years snowmobiling into the Kootenays, swinging tools into steep ice and skiing through complex avalanche terrain.…Read Now ›
[IMG: Triumph Without Will]
[H4] Triumph Without Will
In this Full Value story from Alpinist 91, Christopher Elliott interrogates the history of climbing in the Brenta Dolomites, the Nazi preoccupation with mountains and the responsibility of individuals in the face of fascism. He writes: “The history of alpinism in the Brenta Dolomites is a dramatis personae of characters who ‘achieved’ things that are…Read Now ›
[IMG: Responsibilities of Storytelling]
[H4] Responsibilities of Storytelling
In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 91, Derek Franz considers recurring themes and the responsibilities of storytelling, and announces his trip to Nepal. He writes: “Storytelling is at its highest form when done in service to the bigger picture that goes beyond one person’s benefit; when the threads intertwine and connect, creating a fabric,…Read Now ›
The ALPINIST Podcast
The Alpinist podcast extends our conversations with climbers and community members into a new medium: from fresh interviews to untold stories, and from humorous adventure tales to in-depth discussions of significant issues in the climbing world today.
Listen Now
Episode 74 | The Alpinist Podcast
[H3] Kelsey Gray – A World of Routes
When Kelsey Gray tells people he grew up in Houston, they immediately think he’s talking about the city in Texas. But he’s actually referring to Houston, Alaska. Though he spent a lot of time outdoors as a kid, he didn’t venture into the mountains until later.
He started rock climbing when he was a student at the University of Alaska Anchorage. Around 2008, Gray serendipitously overheard a conversation about how Alaska needed a new rock climbing guidebook. He volunteered for the task. As part of his research for the first edition of the Alaska Rock Climbing Guide, Gray climbed more than 340 routes in one summer. He realized many of them were riddled with old, unsafe hardware and has since dedicated a lot of time and money to replacement.
He’s now published several guidebooks and books of poetry while climbing and developing routes around the world. We connected with Gray while he was in Thailand.
Listen Now ›
Episode 73 | The Alpinist Podcast
[H3] Alita Contreras – Woman Warrior
In this conversation, Alita Contreras discusses the challenges of navigating identity after living in seven countries, and speaks to the incredible biodiversity and climbing communities found in Colombia. We also talk about her involvement in the making of Guerreras, a documentary that takes an intergenerational look at women climbers in Colombia.
Alita guides us through her tactics for visualization, and speaks to how being engaged in a climb is often the only way she can clear her mind of mental clutter.
Listen Now ›

[H2] Newswire
[IMG: Heavy is the Hand: New Route on Mt. Dickey’s south face]
[H2] Heavy is the Hand: New Route on Mt. Dickey’s south face
Alan Rousseau
|
April 3, 2026
From March 27-28, Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau climbed a new route on Mt. Dickey. They named their route Heavy is the Hand (WI6+ M6+ A1, 5,000′).Read Now ›

More NEWSWIRES
[H3] Alpine-style ascent of Nanga Parbat with paraglide and ski descents
At the end of June, David Göttler (Germany) and Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein (France), climbed Nanga Parbat (8125m) via the Schell Route on the Rupal Face in alpine style and descended by paraglider (Göttler) and skis after down climbing a few hundred meters from the windy summit. The trio launched from Base Camp at 3600 meters on June 21 and summited on June 24 at approximately 3:30 p.m. Along the way, they established Camp II at 6800 meters and Camp III at 7400 meters while navigating the mountain’s south face. Where the Schell Route meets the Mazeno Ridge, they crossed the Mazeno…
[H3] 2025 Grit&Rock Award recipients announced
The 2025 Grit & Rock grant winners were announced in early May.
[H3] ​​Update: Public Land Sell-Offs Removed from House Bill, But Major Environmental Threats Remain
Thanks to community pressure lawmakers removed an amendment to sell off more than 500,000 acres of public land in Utah and Nevada. However, the final bill still poses serious threats.
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The Alpinist podcast extends our conversations with climbers and community members into a new medium: from fresh interviews to untold stories, and from humorous adventure tales to in-depth discussions of significant issues in the climbing world today.
[H2] LATEST EPISODES
[H3] Kelsey Gray – A World of Routes
When Kelsey Gray tells people he grew up in Houston, they immediately think he’s talking about the city in Texas. But he’s actually referring to Houston, Alaska. Though he spent a lot of time outdoors as a kid, he didn’t venture into the mountains until later.
He started rock climbing when he was a student at the University of Alaska Anchorage. Around 2008, Gray serendipitously overheard a conversation about how Alaska needed a new rock climbing guidebook. He volunteered for the task. As part of his research for the first edition of the Alaska Rock Climbing Guide, Gray climbed more than 340 routes in one summer. He realized many of them were riddled with old, unsafe hardware and has since dedicated a lot of time and money to replacement.
He’s now published several guidebooks and books of poetry while climbing and developing routes around the world. We connected with Gray while he was in Thailand.
You can learn more about Kelsey Gray in the Local Hero section of Alpinist 92.
This episode is possible thanks to the support of Patagonia.
[H3] Alita Contreras – Woman Warrior
In the film Guerreras, Alita Contreras is shown preparing for a long, traversing rock route on a cliff in Colombia. Her dog by her side, Contreras mimes the moves, headphones on, eyes closed, meditating on what she’s about to climb.
Contreras was born in Venezuela, but her Colombian father made sure to keep traditions from his home country alive during her upbringing. Today, she lives and climbs in Colombia and works as a translator and climbing coach.
In this conversation, she discusses the challenges of navigating identity after living in seven countries, and speaks to the incredible biodiversity and climbing communities found in Colombia. We also talk about her involvement in the making of Guerreras, a documentary that takes an intergenerational look at women climbers in Colombia.
Alita guides us through her tactics for visualization, and speaks to how being engaged in a climb is often the only way she can clear her mind of mental clutter.
This episode is possible thanks to the support of Patagonia.
[H3] Peter Mortimer & Nick Rosen – The Dark Wizard
Climbing documentarians Peter Mortimer and Nick Rosen are known for films such as “The Alpinist” and “Valley Uprising.” Now the directors are out with a four-part documentary series “The Dark Wizard,” which premieres on HBO Max on April 14.
The documentary traces the life of Dean Potter, who was well known in the world of climbing for his bold free soloing, BASE jumping, and highlining. But the human behind those efforts was quite complicated, something that is illustrated through interviews with friends, family, and climbing partners—and archival interviews with Potter himself.
Mortimer and Rosen reflect on their own relationships with Potter, whom they filmed with often before he died in a wingsuit BASE jumping accident in Yosemite in 2015. The pair share why they felt this film needed to be made in an honest way and how Potter’s journals, provided by his sister, presented a lesser-known side of him, one that was quite vulnerable.
Watch “The Dark Wizard”
This episode is possible thanks to the support of Patagonia.
[H3] Will Moss – One Step Further
New York City might seem like an unlikely place for a climber of Will Moss’s caliber to hail from. And yet, he managed to find his way from the climbing gym, to boulders in Central Park, to runout trad routes in the Gunks and big walls in Yosemite. It was there that he recently made headlines as being the first person to flash a big wall free route on El Cap in just one day.
Moss started climbing in his neighborhood gym when he was ten. For some perspective, that was only a decade ago. It was love at first climb, and he hasn’t looked back since. At first, he mainly focused on indoor competition climbing. But when gyms closed during the COVID-19 pandemic he started getting outdoors more. A friend introduced him to the Gunks when he was sixteen, and, as he says, “that’s where the dream of trad climbing began.”
Now twenty years old, Moss’s 22-hour push on El Cap this May was the culmination of more than two years of planning. In this conversation, we talk in depth about the historic climbs Will is ticking off at a young age, and what he’s planning next as he takes a semester off from pursuing a degree in mechanical engineering to chase his climbing dreams.
This episode is possible thanks to the support of the Rab Equipment.
[H3] Sonnie Trotter – Commitment to Climbing
When Sonnie Trotter was a teenager, he discovered a portal into another world. Entering the local climbing gym he found challenge, adventure and passion. By sixteen, he was all in, and he made it up his first 5.14 within just a few years.
The climbing seemed to come naturally, but figuring out how to make a living doing it took a lot more time—and some trial and error. Early sponsorships covered gas money for traveling to competitions, but it took him a decade to start generating real income as an athlete. He knew that his happiness was directly connected to climbing and so he did whatever he could to do it as much as he could.
Looking back at the last thirty years of climbing, Trotter says he’s most proud of his willingness to listen to himself and commit to his passion. He recently published Uplifted, a memoir chronicling those many years of climbing, his role as a father and how he manages to tie it all together.
In this conversation, we talk about Trotter’s evolution as an athlete, where he finds freedom and why he believes climbing should be fun—even when it’s not easy.
This episode is possible thanks to the support of the Rab Equipment.
[H3] Mary Catherine Eden: The Importance of Being Bored
While growing up in Kentucky, Mary Eden was often bored. But it was that boredom, she recalls, that helped her find meaningful interests as she explored her world. It led her to art and to adventure. She didn’t discover rock climbing until she moved to Moab in her early twenties. Even then, she says she wasn’t a naturally-gifted climber. But, she was determined to learn, and did whatever she needed to do to find gear, mentorship and belayers. She always had the drive, and once she learned how to properly train, Eden progressed, fairly quickly, to being one of the best crack climbers in the world. Her climbing accomplishments include Necronomicon (5.14a) and Black Mamba (5.14b).Today, Eden is a professional climber and artist. She shared the story of her life and journey into climbing in Alpinist 89, and she’s featured on the cover of that issue.In this conversation, Mary talks about her growth as a climber and the beauty she finds in the holds and heights of Western landscapes, especially around her home in Moab. She reflects on what she learns about herself through climbing, especially during moments of self doubt and explains why she encourages her friends to fail as often as possible.
This episode is possible thanks to the support of the Rab Equipment.
[H3] Dawn Hollis: Flipping the Script on Mountain Relationships
Dawn Hollis has been obsessed with mountains since she was a small child growing up in Suffolk, which she describes as being “a really flat part of the UK.” Her first glimpse of more elevated landscapes came at age nine on a family trip to Wales. The trip sparked a lifelong passion for being in, and studying the history of, these wild places. Later, Hollis had a school teacher who had climbed Everest, and further encouraged her love of mountains.
As an adult, Hollis found a niche in researching humans’ relationships to mountains and how it has changed over time. Her book Mountains Before Mountaineering draws on years of PhD research, and calls into question common beliefs about how peaks were viewed before the eighteenth century.
In this episode, Hollis talks about the challenges she’s encountered as she upended the belief that mountains were generally feared or avoided during this time. She says our appreciation for mountains pre-dates the modern era—even if historical texts theorize otherwise—and continues to evolve to this day.
This episode is possible thanks to the support of the American Alpine Club.
[H3] Kai Lightner: The Last Six Years
Kai Lightner is no stranger to the spotlight—or to this magazine. He’s been climbing since he was six, when he joined the climbing team at a gym in North Carolina. Four years later Lightner won his first national title, and the wins just kept coming.
In 2016, while still in high school, Lightner wrote an essay for Alpinist 55 about learning how to trad climb from Doug Robinson. A few years later, as a sophomore in college, he appeared on this podcast, in conversation with Paula LaRochelle. He had recently taken a step back from climbing and would soon found the nonprofit organization Climbing For Change.
A lot has happened in Lightner’s life since that last conversation. He spoke up about his struggles with eating and bodyweight as a competition climber, opening up a bigger conversation. Through Climbing for Change, he’s been at the forefront of initiatives aimed at making climbing more diverse and inclusive. He traveled to Jamaica and helped build the country’s first climbing wall. Lightner even tried trad climbing again, though he says it’s still not really his thing.
And, last year, Lightner climbed his first 5.15.
In this episode, Lightner discusses the last six years, reflects on the importance of community and connection and considers the value of forgiveness.
This episode is possible thanks to the support of the American Alpine Club.
[H3] Babsi Zangerl on Learning, Growing and Flashing El Cap
Last year, Babsi Zangerl did something no one has ever done before—she flashed a route on El Capitan. Thousands of feet of hard climbing with no falls. Her partner, Jacopo Larcher, came really close, taking just one fall during their ascent of Freerider.
Zangerl has been a climber for over two decades, since she was a teenager at a climbing gym in Austria. But what, and how, she climbs has evolved over that time—she spent her early years as a professional boulderer.
Zangerl first visited Yosemite fifteen years ago with her friend Hansjörg Auer. She was getting more serious about ropes after sustaining a serious back injury while bouldering. Since that first trip in 2010, Zangerl has returned with Larcher to free climb many of the valley’s classic routes, including Zodiac, Magic Mushroom and the Nose.
In 2018 the pair climbed the North Face of the Eiger. In 2022 they freed Eternal Flame on Pakistan’s Nameless Tower, a trip Larcher wrote about in Alpinist 82. And their list of accomplishments just keeps growing.
In this episode, Zangerl talks about the beginnings of her climbing career in Austria, her partnership with Larcher, learning the ropes from Hansjörg Auer and much more.
This episode is possible thanks to the support of the American Alpine Club.
[H3] Rick Accomazzo: Tobin, The Stonemasters, and Me
Rick Accomazzo came of age in the climbing world as part of the Stonemasters—a name adopted by a group of friends largely climbing in Yosemite, Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks in the 1970s. To become a Stonemaster, you had to send a 5.11 called Valhalla. Tobin Sorenson was a Stonemaster too. He was also, Accomazzo believes, the best all-around climber in the world at the time.
Throughout the 70s, the Stonemasters branched out from rock to ice, and from California to the Canadian Rockies and Europe. Sorenson, Accomazzo recalled, took to alpine climbing just as well as he had to rock. It was an age of joy, fun and great physical challenges. But in 1980 Sorenson died in an accident on Mt. Alberta when he was twenty-five years old. The Stonemasters were deeply affected by the loss. They climbed on, but it was never the same.
Accomazzo shares the story of his friend in his new book, “Tobin, The Stonemasters, And Me: Remembering Tobin Sorenson, The Best Climber In The World.” Accomazzo shares his personal experiences climbing with Sorenson and reflects on the ability, character and accomplishments that made him so singular in the climbing universe.
This episode is possible thanks to the support o Patagonia. Following our conversation with Beth Rodden, you can listen to Patagonia Ambassador Colin Haley chat with host Abbey Collins about his passion for innovation and product development, and in particular his role in developing the new M10 Storm pants.
[H3] Other Everests: Hidden Histories & Contemporary Challenges
The events of one the most famous Everest stories took place a century ago, when George Mallory and Sandy Irvine disappeared during the 1924 British Mount Everest expedition.
A hundred years later, a group of writers is shedding light on the many different people and worlds that have, throughout history, had an important connection to the mountain. In sixteen different essays: Other Everests: One Mountain, Many Worlds tells stories from new perspectives—of people and things that have long been overlooked.
Editors Jonathan Westaway and Peter Hansen joined the Alpinist Podcast to discuss why they embarked on this project. And Sarah Pickman, who wrote one of the pieces in the Other Everests collection, discussed what we can learn from what gear and equipment was brought along on expeditions.
This episode is possible thanks to the support o Patagonia. Following our conversation with Beth Rodden, you can listen to Patagonia Ambassador Colin Haley chat with host Abbey Collins about his passion for innovation and product development, and in particular his role in developing the new M10 Storm pants.
[H3] Climbing Isn’t Everything: Beth Rodden
Beth Rodden established herself as one of the best rock climbers in the world at the height of her career. Through much of that time, Rodden was quietly struggling with her mental health as she tried to move forward after she and her climbing partners were kidnapped at gunpoint during a trip to Kyrgyzstan in 2000. Now Rodden’s bravery appears in new ways—she’s still a professional climber, but she’s also using her platform to open up conversations about body image, motherhood and finding joy in climbing in a gentler way.
This episode is possible thanks to the support o Patagonia. Following our conversation with Beth Rodden, you can listen to Patagonia Ambassador Colin Haley chat with host Abbey Collins about his passion for innovation and product development, and in particular his role in developing the new M10 Storm pants.
[H3] Graham Zimmerman’s Balancing Act
For all of his expeditions and cutting-edge climbs around the world, Graham Zimmerman’s story is one of balancing adventure

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Current Issue
[H2] Alpinist 93 | Spring 2026
Cover: Connor Herson works through the “pogo” crux on Drifter’s Escape in Sḵwx̱wú7mesh (Squamish). Herson completed the first free ascent of the route in July and proposed a grade of 5.15a—meaning it likely consists of some of the hardest trad climbing in the world. Christian Adam
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[H2] Frequently Asked Questions
How much does an Alpinist subscription cost?
The standard price for Alpinist is:
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