Training Example: Energy Comparison – Review the Data, Give Your Score & Compare to the Real AI Evaluation

[H1] Energy Comparison
Enter your postcode now to search for free energy quotes that could save you hundreds on your annual bills.

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Please enter a valid UK postcode (e.g. SW1A 1AA).

[H2] Why switch energy?
With gas and electricity prices rising significantly in recent years, the energy market is showing signs of stabilisation after a prolonged period of volatility. As we enter 2026, consumers are bracing for yet another price rise, but are still in a better position than they were a couple of years ago, as savings can be made by comparing tariffs and switching suppliers.

New fixed tariffs: Most energy suppliers have reintroduced fixed-rate plans, offering potential savings compared to the price cap.

Competitive deals: After a prolonged absence, competitive deals are slowly re-entering the market, providing more options for consumers.

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Did you know?
Switching supplier can save the average household hundreds of pounds per year.

Suppliers
[H2] We compare a wide range of UK suppliers
Including major brands and newer independents — we'll show the best-value tariffs for your needs.

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[H2] Compare Energy Tariffs
View indicative pricing for your region. For accurate quotes, please use the postcode search.

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Last updated: 24th November 2025

Urgent Update

[H2] Switch Now to Beat the Price Cap

From October 1st to December 31st, 2025, the energy price cap is set at £1,755 for the average household, a 2% increase from the previous cap of £1,720.
However, while competitive deals are slowly re-emerging in the market after record high levels over the last few years, saving money on your household energy bills isn’t as simple as finding a cheaper tariff and switching. While that’s certainly the first step, long-term savings remain uncertain as the market continues to fluctuate.

[H3] Energy Price Cap

£1,755

2%

Average household / year (Oct-Dec 2025)
Check Your Rates

As your gas and electricity bills will vary based on your actual energy consumption, you need to consider reducing your own household’s usage with energy-saving measures. These can range from simple changes such as switching off all devices and turning off lights when not in the room to considerable investments, such as home solar panels or heat pumps.
While switching to a cheaper fixed tariff can help you to save money both in the short term and long term, we also advise you to regularly keep up to date with fluctuations in the market and to monitor your usage so that you can identify where to make cost-saving measures.

[H2] How to Switch Energy Supplier
It's easier than you think to start saving.

1

[H3] Enter your postcode
This will help us to find the best tariffs available in your area.

2

[H3] Enter details
If you’re not sure who your current supplier is or your annual usage, check a recent bill.

3

[H3] Compare deals
You’ll be presented with a list of tariffs you can switch to. Simply compare and find one that suits needs.

4

[H3] Enjoy savings
Once you’ve chosen a new supplier, we’ll take care of the switching process for you.

[H2] What to look for in an energy supplier
When comparing energy suppliers, it's important to consider the following aspects to ensure you're making the best choice for your needs. By carefully weighing these factors, you can make a more informed decision.
Start Comparing

[H3] 1. Price
Look at both the unit rate and standing charge, ensure it’s below the price cap, and compare with similar tariffs.

[H3] 2. Tariff type
Fixed rate for peace of mind, or variable rate for potential savings if prices fall. Choose what suits your risk appetite.

[H3] 3. Customer service
Check online reviews and satisfaction ratings. You want issues resolved quickly and efficiently.

[H3] 4. Green credentials
Check the fuel mix for renewable sources or opt for a specific green tariff to support sustainable initiatives.

[H3] 5. Contract length & Exit fees
Check for exit fees on fixed tariffs. Ensure the contract length aligns with your plans.

[H2] What types of energy tariffs are available?

[H3] Fixed Rate Energy Tariffs
A fixed rate tariff locks in the price per unit of gas or electricity for the duration of your contract, which is typically between one and two years. While your monthly bills will depend on your actual energy usage, the unit price remains the same, so you'll be protected from any price increases in the wholesale market.
However, you won't benefit if prices drop. Generally, fixed rate tariffs offer lower prices along with stability and predictability.

[H3] Variable Rate Energy Tariffs
With a variable rate tariff, the price you pay per unit of energy will change based on wholesale price fluctuations. If wholesale energy prices rise, so will your bills, but you’ll pay less when the market drops.
The most common type are default or standard variable tariffs. These are typically the most expensive, yet many remain on them if they haven't switched in over two years.

[H4] Dual Fuel Tariffs
Combining gas and electricity under a single supplier. Often results in cost savings and easier management.

[H4] Prepayment Tariffs
Pay in advance and top up. Typically higher rates, recommended only to manage debt or budgeting strictly.

[H4] Economy 7 Tariffs
Different rates for day and night. Beneficial for those using lots of energy at night (e.g. EV charging).

[H4] Renewable Tariffs
Electricity from renewable sources. Now very competitive, allowing you to reduce carbon footprint and bills.

Eco-Friendly
[H2] Should you switch to a green energy supplier?
Apart from reducing your carbon footprint, there are many benefits to switching to a green energy supplier. Renewable energy is now much more competitive, meaning you can save money while helping the environment.
With dozens of suppliers focusing on renewable energy, it’s easy to find one. Simply take a look at their fuel mix.
Find Green Tariffs

[H2] Other ways to save energy at home
Switching is just the first step. Lower your consumption and improve efficiency for the biggest savings.

[IMG: Solar Panels]

[H3]
Solar panels

Generate your own electricity. Significant upfront cost but offers long-term savings and independence from grid prices.

[IMG: Heat Pumps]

[H3]
Heat pumps

Efficient alternative to boilers. Can be expensive to install but high efficiency lowers long-term bills.

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[H3]
Boilers

Upgrade old boilers to modern efficient ones. Cheaper than heat pumps with quicker ROI.

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[H3]
Double glazed windows

Enhance insulation and heat retention. Keeps heating bills low especially in winter.

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[H3]
Insulation

Loft, wall, or floor insulation prevents heat loss. Drastically improves efficiency.

[H2] Switching Business Energy
Whether you run a SME or a large organisation, comparing business tariffs can lower outgoings. The UK business market has key differences:

No price cap: Rates are set entirely by the supplier contract.

Extra charges: VAT (often 20%) and Climate Change Levy.

Longer contracts: Up to five years, making locking in rates crucial.

Tailored rates: Quotes depend on business size, usage, and industry.

Compare Business Energy

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[H2] Frequently Asked Questions

Who is the cheapest energy supplier?

Unfortunately, it’s not easy to say which is cheapest as it depends on your habits, consumption, and location. Compare tariffs carefully, weighing unit costs against standing charges.

Who is the greenest energy supplier?

Many claim to offer 100% green energy, including Ecotricity, Octopus Energy, and 100Green. Check each supplier’s fuel mix.

How long does it take to switch energy suppliers?

Typically no longer than five working days, but with the 14-day cooling off period, it could take up to 19 days total.

Can I switch energy suppliers if I’m on a prepayment meter?

Yes, provided you are no more than £500 in debt to your current supplier. Debt will be transferred.

Should I get a smart meter?

It’s up to you, but they offer accurate billing (no manual readings) and help monitor usage to reduce bills.

What’s the best way to pay energy bills?

Direct debit is typically the most competitive method and helps prevent missing payments.

Can I cancel my energy switch?

Yes. You have a 14-day cooling-off period legally starting from when you agree to the switch. Contact the new supplier to cancel.

[H1] How to Save Money on Your Energy Bills
It’s been a tough few years for energy consumers in the UK. Supply chain issues, accelerated by the pandemic, have been exacerbated by other external factors such as foreign conflict and geopolitical tensions, all of which combined have put significant pressure on the global energy market, pushing up the price of gas and electricity for the consumer.

[IMG: How to Save Money on Your Energy Bills]

Turn off the lights

Turn off appliances when not in use

Use appliances efficiently

Invest in energy-efficient appliances

Have better control of your thermostat

Minimise draughts

Upgrade your boiler

Generate your own energy

Switch suppliers

While making sure you’re on a competitive gas and electricity tariff, which you can do by comparing suppliers and switching to a better deal, there are many other things you can do at home to ensure your monthly energy bills are kept to a minimum. At the end of the day, your bills will be determined by the amount of energy you consume, so reducing your usage wherever you can goes a long way to lowering your costs, helping you to save money during these times when everything seems to be going up in price.In this guide, we’ll take you through some of the quickest and simplest ways to make your home more energy efficient and change your habits to reduce your usage and, ultimately, your energy bills.
[H2] Turn off the lights
This may sound obvious, but sometimes it’s the simplest behavioural changes that can make the biggest impact. A single standard light bulb uses around 0.1 kW of energy per hour while in use, which will cost you, on average, around 2.7p.[1] While this doesn’t sound like much, it’s likely that you have more than one light bulb at home, and by leaving the lights on in multiple rooms at once, these figures can quickly add up.Generally, turning all the lights off every time you leave a room is a matter of routine and not something many of us consciously think of doing. And if this isn’t yet a regular habit of yours, then it’s wise to change your habits, as it could save the average household around £20 per year on their energy bills.[2] And, of course, the larger your home and the more light bulbs you have, the more you can save.
[H2] Turn off appliances when not in use
It’s not just the lights you need to think about turning off when leaving the room. In today’s world, the average household has around a dozen electrical appliances and connected devices lying around, each of which will be using energy while on standby.[3] Apart from your fridge and freezer, almost every appliance can be switched off at the mains when not in use without causing too much disruption.Typical household appliances, sometimes referred to as White Goods, make up around 14% of your energy bill, on average.[4] These appliances include your washing machine, dishwasher, cooker, and microwave, and all of them still use energy while on standby. Add to these your TV, computers and laptops, phone chargers, games consoles, and internet router, making sure to switch off appliances, devices, and chargers at the plug each time you’re not using them can result in significant savings on your energy bills.
[H2] Use appliances efficiently
Of course, you’ll need to switch on your home appliances fairly regularly if you actually want to get any use out of them. However, there are also eco-conscious habits you can pick up to ensure the energy efficiency of these appliances when they are in use.For example, to get the most out of your washing machine with the least amount of energy, you should wash as many clothes as possible each time, use the right settings such as ‘quick wash’ and cooler temperatures, and use a high spin setting to ensure your clothes dry faster. Similar principles apply to your dishwasher and fridge, while kettles should only be boiled with the amount of water you need. For more information, check out our page on which household appliances use the most energy.
[H2] Invest in energy-efficient appliances
If you think you’ve cracked it in terms of using your home appliances in the most efficient way possible, you’re extremely diligent when it comes to turning off all your lights, but your energy usage and bills are still too high for your liking, then it may be time to take one step further and invest in newer, more energy-efficient appliances and lighting.One of the easiest changes to make, and also probably the cheapest, is to switch to energy-efficient lighting. Incandescent lightbulbs are typically the least efficient, with more than 90% of the electricity used to power them being lost as heat. Fluorescent lightbulbs are an improvement, but it’s best to go for LED lighting, which uses up to 75% less energy than traditional incandescent bulbs.[5]Upgrading your White Goods, such as your dishwasher, fridge, or electric cooker, will inevitably come with a higher upfront cost, but the savings you can make in the long run in terms of lower energy usage can be significant. When searching for new appliances, take a look at their energy rating, which will range from A to G - with A being the most energy-efficient and G being the least. While newer models are likely to be more efficient, they’ll also be more expensive at first, but can cost up to 50% less to run.[6]
[H2] Have better control of your thermostat
Heating costs, especially in the cold, dark winter months, make up a significant chunk of household energy bills in the UK. On average, more than half of a typical UK household’s energy bill will be spent on heating and hot water, so being in control of your heating and using it efficiently can go a long way to reducing your monthly bills.[7]While energy costs are high, you don’t have to freeze yourself in the winter or put on your thickest jumper to keep warm. Reducing your thermostat by just one degree can save up to £80 per year on your energy bills, and reducing it by a further degree on milder days will help you to save even more.[8]You should also consider installing a smart thermostat, which can be controlled with a remote device such as your smartphone, allowing you to control the heating in different rooms in your house wherever you are. By only heating the rooms you’re actually using at any given time, and to an optimally efficient temperature, can result in huge savings on your annual energy bill.[9]
[H2] Minimise draughts
There are also simpler ways to ensure your home is warm without relying on your heating system. It’s estimated that around a quarter of an average home’s heating is lost through draughts, which can be found by your windows, doors, and even your roof.[10] The easiest way to minimise this is to draught-proof your property, which involves things like draught blockers under your doors or sealing gaps around your windows.However, the best way to ensure heat is kept within your home and not lost to the elements is to invest in home insulation and double-glazing. While both of these come with a significant upfront cost, they’re a worthwhile investment, as they can drastically reduce your need for heating while boosting the value of your property.[11][12]There are a few different forms of home insulation to consider, and some will be better suited to some households than others. They include loft insulation, cavity wall insulation, solid wall insulation, and floor insulation. When it comes to windows, double-glazing can reduce your home’s heat loss by up to 70%, while you could even consider triple-glazing.[13] Your front door could also be upgraded to a more efficient type, which would typically be a composite or uPVC door.
[H2] Upgrade your boiler
One of the most energy-intensive appliances in your home is likely your boiler. These are essential for heating your home and your hot water, but there can be a huge range in their energy efficiency depending on the model and age. Generally, a boiler will work efficiently for around 12-15 years, but after this, it may be using a lot more energy than is needed.[14]So, if you haven’t upgraded your boiler for a few years, it may be due for an upgrade. Investing in a modern, energy-efficient boiler can cost anywhere between £500 and £5,000, so it’s not a decision that should be taken lightly. However, an A-rated boiler can save you up to 40% on your annual bills compared to an older model, so it won’t be long before you see a return on this investment.[15]You could also consider going for an even more eco-friendly option - a heat pump. Both air source and ground source heat pumps are growing in popularity in the UK, and both are up to four times as energy-efficient as a gas boiler.[16][17] They’re expensive to install, and their feasibility also depends on the type of home you have, but if you’re serious about reducing your energy bills long-term, heat pumps are without doubt a viable option.
[H2] Generate your own energy
Another investment to make if you’re determined to lower your energy usage and reduce your reliance on the grid is to generate your own energy at home. This can be done in a variety of ways, whether it’s installing solar panels, mini wind turbines, water turbines, or some more experimental technologies.As of today, solar panels are by far the most popular form of domestic microgeneration in the UK, despite all the cloudy weather we’re known for.[18] Solar panel installation can cost several thousand pounds, depending on the size of your home and the type of solar panel you go for, but by using the energy they harness, you can drastically lower your household electricity bills.[19] You can also make use of Smart Export Guarantee (SEG) tariffs, which actually pay you for exporting your domestically-produced energy to the grid.
[H2] Switch suppliers
Finally, arguably the easiest way to lower your energy bills is to switch to a cheaper energy tariff. While energy prices have soared in the last few years, they’re showing signs of stabilising, and competitive deals can be found once again. If you haven’t switched your energy supplier for two years or more, it’s likely that you’re paying over the odds, and the time to switch is now.Switching energy suppliers is quick, simple, and absolutely free, so there’s no need to be daunted by anything. To get started, simply enter your postcode into our comparison engine, along with your annual energy usage, to see a list of quotes from a wide range of suppliers. Make sure to compare both the unit rate and standing charge in order to find the most cost-effective tariff for your needs.

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[H1] Energy Performance Certificates
Before you purchase or rent a home, you likely want to know how expensive your energy bills will be.An energy performance certificate, or EPC, is a government-required document that rates the energy performance and estimates the energy bills for most domestic and commercial properties in the UK, giving buyers and renters these insights.[1][2]EPCs also list potential upgrades that can be made to improve the energy efficiency of the property and the energy bill savings that these investments could yield.But how do you read an EPC rating? When does your property need one, and how do you obtain it?

[IMG: Lauren Smith]

[IMG: Mike Rowe]

Written by Lauren Smith
Edited by
, edited by
Mike Rowe
11 November 2025
12 mins read

What is an energy performance certificate?

What can you see on your energy performance certificate?

EPC ratings explained

Why would you need an energy performance certificate?

Is my home exempt from an EPC?

How much does an EPC cost?

How to get an EPC for your home

How long are EPCs valid for?

How to improve your home’s EPC rating

[H2] What is an energy performance certificate?
An energy performance certificate rates the energy efficiency of domestic and commercial buildings in the UK, giving buyers and renters insight into how much it costs to heat and light the property. An EPC assigns a property a letter rating from A (most efficient) to G (least efficient) and a numerical energy score, and estimates its running costs and carbon emissions. For properties in England in 2025, the average energy rating is a C, and the average energy score is 69. In Wales, the average energy rating is a D, with a slightly lower average score of 68.[3]EPCs also identify upgrades you can make to improve this rating and lower your energy bills, and the new rating and score the property could achieve with these changes.EPCs are issued by accredited assessors following a survey of your property, which typically costs between £60 and £120, depending on the property’s size, age, and location.[4] An EPC is valid for 10 years. You must have an up-to-date EPC if you’re selling or renting out a property or even just marketing it for sale or rent.[1]You can check the EPC of any property in England, Wales, or Northern Ireland using this free government service. For properties in Scotland, you can use the Scottish Energy Performance Certificate Register.
[H2] What can you see on your energy performance certificate?
EPCs vary somewhat between England, Scotland, Wales, and Northern Ireland, and have been tweaked over the years, so the one for your property might not look exactly like this. But the main elements should be there, in some order.

Energy efficiency rating

Your property is assigned a letter energy rating—from G to A—and a numerical score—from 1 to 92+— based on its current energy efficiency. These are displayed in a chart. Most certificates also display the potential energy rating and score of the property if you make recommended upgrades.

Breakdown of the energy performance

You’ll also see an assessment of key features in the property, rating them very good, good, average, poor, or very poor. These ratings determine the overall energy rating and score of the property. Sometimes a rating of a property feature will be “assumed,” not directly assessed, but rather based on the property’s age and type. Features assessed include:Walls: whether they’re cavity or solid, and the presence of insulationRoof: whether it’s flat or pitched, the presence of insulation, or, in flats, if there is another property aboveWindows: whether they’re single, double, or triple- glazedHeating: whether the flat uses a gas boiler, electric heat pumps, electric storage heating, LPG boilers, or doesn’t have central heating. The efficiency of the heating, e.g., the appliance rating of the boiler and whether it's condensing or not.Heating control: how temperature is adjusted, for example, with a basic thermostat, a smart thermostat, with zoning controls, etc.Hot water: how water is heated, for example, by a gas boiler or electric showerLighting: the bulbs used, e.g., LEDsFloor: whether the floor is insulated or, in flats, there is another property belowSecondary heating: Many homes supplement inadequate central heating with additional heat, such as portable electric heating, wood-burning stoves, or chimneys. These usually lower a home’s score and EPC rating.

Estimated energy costs

The EPC will estimate the annual energy costs for heating, hot water, and lighting on the property, based on typical use and average energy prices for the year the EPC was produced.

Impact on the environment

The EPC also estimates the carbon emissions associated with the property’s annual energy use (in tonnes of CO2) and rates its impact on the environment from A (best) to G (worst). For context, the average UK property produces 6 tonnes of CO2 annually.[5] The EPC also estimates the potential CO2 emissions of the property if the suggested energy-saving measures are adopted.

Steps you can take to save energy

The EPC also outlines changes that can be made to the property to improve its energy efficiency. It notes the standard installation cost of these upgrades and the typical annual savings from them. The suggested steps may include installing insulation, buying a more efficient boiler, or installing double glazing. The steps are listed in a recommended order: for example, it’s more efficient to insulate a property before installing a new boiler, because the heat from the boiler would simply leak out of a poorly insulated home.

Information about the assessor

The certificate also provides the name and contact information for the assessor who produced it, along with their accreditation scheme.

[H2] EPC ratings explained
EPC ratings consist of two parts:

1

A letter grade from G (least efficient) to A (most efficient)

2

A numerical score, from 1 to 92+, the points it receives under the Standard Assessment Procedure (SAP) used by assessors to evaluate the property.

Energy ratingEnergy score (SAP points)Meaning% of homes (data from 2022)A92-100 pointsVery energy efficient0.18%B81-91 pointsGood energy efficiency3.78%C69-80 pointsAverage to good energy efficiency44.39%D55-68 pointsAverage38.54%E39-54 pointsAverage to poor energy efficiency10.4%F21-38 pointsPoor energy efficiency2.03%G1-20 pointsVery energy inefficient0.68%The three things that most contribute to a property’s SAP score and thus its EPC rating are:The heating system in the propertyThe amount of insulation presentThe fuel used (natural gas, LPG, electric, etc.)A-rated properties are extremely rare. In 2022, just over 2,500 homes achieved that rigorous rating, out of the 1.5 million new EPCs issued. A-rated properties likely have most of the following characteristics:New builds or homes retrofitted to the latest energy efficiency standardsHave high levels of insulation on lofts (>270mm), walls, and floorsTriple-glazed windowsEnergy-efficient heating and hot water, most likely with an electric heat pumpSmart heating controls, with timing and zoningLED lightingSolar PV panelsB-rated properties are more common, with 3.78% of homes achieving that rating in 2022, according to government data. They likely have:High levels of insulationDouble- or triple-glazed windowsA heat pump or highly efficient condensing boiler (>89% efficient)Smart thermostats with zoning, radiators with thermostatic valves (TRVs)LED lightingPossibly solar panelsBuilt in the last 15 years or has undergone a comprehensive retrofitC-rated properties meet the minimum target that the government wants all homes to achieve by 2035. The government is also proposing that all privately rented properties achieve a C by 2028 for new tenancies and by 2030 for all tenancies.C-rated properties likely have:Some loft insulationCavity wall insulationDouble-glazed windows, possibly olderModern gas boilers, possibly olderThermostats, but no smart features or zoningNo solar panelsOlder propertiesMore than half of UK properties are rated inadequate, with ratings between D and G. The worst of these, G-rated properties:Have no heating or rely on inefficient room heaters, such as portable electric heatersHave no or minimal insulationUse expensive fuel to heat their homes, such as LPG or peak electric
[H2] Why would you need an energy performance certificate?
It’s a legal requirement to have an in-date EPC for most domestic and commercial properties in the UK when you:Sell itRent it outFinish a buildEPCs last 10 years and must be updated when they expire. For example, if you’re selling your home and haven’t had an EPC done in over 10 years, you’ll need to get a new one before seeking out a buyer.You must have the EPC in place before marketing a property for sale or rent, including listing it with estate agents or online. The EPC must be available to view by prospective buyers or tenants. You could face fines of up to £5,000 for failing to provide an EPC when required, although the amount is based on the rateable value of the property. The higher amount is usually reserved for commercial properties, while penalties for domestic properties fall between £200 and £1,000.
[H2] Is my home exempt from an EPC?
While most homes require an up-to-date EPC when being sold, rented, or completed, there are a few limited exceptions, most of which don’t apply to homes.

[H3] Buildings exempt from the EPC requirement include:[6]

Listed buildings

Listed buildings aren’t automatically exempt from the EPC requirement. Rather, some may be exempt if “compliance with certain minimum energy performance requirements would unacceptably alter their character or appearance.” For example, if energy efficiency upgrades would be denied planning permission due to the building’s protected status, the building is exempt. However, if improvements are approved, the property should have an EPC.

Temporary buildings

Structures that will only be used for two years or less, such as cabins on building sites and temporary accommodation.

Holiday accommodation

Buildings rented out for less than four months a year, and are let under a licence to occupy (a legal agreement that’s less than a tenancy, giving someone temporary permission to use a property).

Residential buildings

Used for fewer than four months out of the year, e.g., second homes.

Small structures

Stand-alone buildings with total usable floor space of less than 50 square metres (around 540 square feet), such as workshops and small outbuildings.

Some industrial or agricultural buildings

This applies to those that use less than 25% of their energy for heating spaces where people work.

Some buildings scheduled for demolition or major renovation.

Religious buildings

This includes churches, mosques, temples, and other buildings primarily used for worship.

If you’re unsure if your property requires an EPC, contact an assessor, who can clarify.
[H2] How much does an EPC cost?
It costs between £60 and £120 to obtain an EPC for a home from a credentialed Domestic Energy Assessor. The amount you’ll pay varies, depending on:

[H3] Property size

Small flats are easier and less time-consuming for the assessor to evaluate, so EPCs for them typically cost less. Larger homes cost more.

[H3] Location

Like many things, EPCs cost more in London and the southeast. They also cost more in rural areas, where there may be fewer accredited assessors, and they may have to travel further to reach your property.

[H3] Property complexity

Older or listed properties and those with non-standard construction cost more to assess.

[H3] Turnaround time

Same-day service is more expensive.

EPCs for commercial properties typically cost more, ranging between £100 and £1,500, with the cost depending on the size and location of the building, its business use (a small shop or office is cheaper to assess than a hotel), and complexity.[7]
[H2] How to get an EPC for your home
Legally, EPCs can only be produced by accredited Domestic or Non-domestic Energy Assessors, trained, certified, and registered through a government-approved scheme, such as Elmhurst and Quidos.[8]To find an assessor or check the credentials of one, you can consult government-maintained registers:In England, Wales, and Northern Ireland: https://www.gov.uk/get-new-energy-certificateIn Scotland: https://www.scottishepcregister.org.uk/assessorsearchYou can also ask your estate agent to recommend an energy assessor or perform a simple Google search.The assessor will then visit your home at an agreed time and evaluate its features, including the heating, windows, roof, and walls. The visit should take 30 minutes to an hour, depending on the size and complexity of the property.[9]The assessor will then send you your EPC report within a few days. It will also be published on the government’s website, searchable by you and potential buyers and tenants of the property.[10]
[H2] How long are EPCs valid for?
EPCs are valid for 10 years from the date they are issued.[1]However, when yours expires, you don’t automatically need to obtain a new one unless you’re selling or renting out the property.If you’ve made major upgrades to the property, it may be worth getting a new EPC before yours expires to reflect the changes and accurately advertise the place to potential tenants and buyers.
[H2] How to improve your home’s EPC rating
Conveniently, EPCs come with specific recommendations, telling you exactly the changes you should make to improve your property’s energy efficiency and thus EPC rating.

[H3] Common suggestions made in EPC documents include:

Install 270 mm of loft insulation

Typically adds 10-16 points to your home's energy score, boosting its rating by one or even two letter grades.[11]

Insulate walls

Insulating cavity or solid walls can add 4-20 points to your energy score.[12]

Replace single-glazed windows with double or triple-glazing

Can add 5-10 points.[13]

Install a modern, efficient condensing boiler

Replacing an old G-rated boiler with an A-rated condensing boiler can add 23 to 40 points to a score.[13][14]

Add heating controls, such as thermostatic radiator valves and smart thermostats

An uplift of 2-4 points.[15]

Install draught proofing on windows, doors, and chimneys

Uplift of 3-7 points.[16]

Replace older bulbs with LED bulbs

Uplift of 1-2 points.[17]

Install solar PV panels to generate clean electricity at home

Boost of 5-15 points.[18]

Install a heat pump

Can add 10-15+ points, provided your home is adequately insulated.[

[H1] Double Glazed Windows
Double-glazed windows are one of the best investments you can make to lower your energy bills, increase your property’s value, and feel more comfortable at home. That’s why 88% of UK homes have double-glazed windows and they’ve been required by the government for all new and replacement windows and doors since 2002.[1][2]However, an estimated 23% of the housing stock has pre-2002 double-glazed windows which don’t offer nearly the insulation current models do.[3] That means one in three British households is throwing money out of their single-pane or outdated double-glazed windows, in the form of unnecessarily high heating bills.

[IMG: Double Glazed Windows]

What is double glazing?

Will double-glazed windows save me money on my energy bills?

Double glazing vs triple glazing: What’s the difference?

Styles of double-glazed windows

Types of double-glazing materials

How much do double-glazed windows cost?

Are there any grants for double-glazed windows?

Are double-glazed windows worth it?

What are the best double-glazed windows?

FAQs

[H2] What is double glazing?
Double glazing is a way of manufacturing windows to maximise their energy efficiency. Instead of a single pane of glass set in a frame, double-glazed windows consist of two panes, with a small gap - usually under 16mm - between them, sealed together to be airtight.[4]That gap is created by a spacer bar around the edges of the window. The spacer bar is filled with desiccant, an absorbent material such as silica gel, which prevents condensation from building up between the panes.That gap is filled with dehydrated air or an inert gas, such as argon, krypton, or xenon, that conducts heat more slowly than air. Newer double-glazed windows are made of low emissivity (low-E) glass, which is coated so it reflects infrared radiation, a component of heat, back into the home. This is similar to the way a thermos works and further reduces heat loss. The coating is transparent and allows light to pass through.Double-glazed windows provide better insulation than single-pane windows, slowing the transfer of warm air outside in the winter and into your home in the summer.
[H2] Will double-glazed windows save me money on my energy bills?
By providing better insulation than single-glazed windows, double-glazed windows prevent the loss of heat so your boiler or other heating system doesn't need to burn as much fuel to keep your home at a comfortable temperature. That means lower energy bills.In fact, it was the 1973 oil crisis which spurred Britons to adopt double-glazing. With fuel prices soaring and energy scarce, we started looking for ways to cut our fuel use and bills, including more heat-resistant windows. By the 1980s double-glazed windows had become standard in new homes in the UK.How much exactly can you save by replacing single-glazed windows with double-glazing? The Energy Saving Trust estimates that installing A-rated double-glazed windows on a semi-detached, gas-heated home with entirely single-glazed windows could save you up to £140 per year on your energy bills. If you invest in even better A++-rated double-glazed windows, you could save up to £150 per year on the energy bills for the same property.[5]The Glass and Glazing Federation (GGF) estimates the savings are even greater. It says upgrading home windows to “current standards" could save households up to £395 per year.[6]Even if you already have double-glazed windows, replacing them with current models could save you energy. The GGF says that double-glazed windows installed before 2002 are 50% less energy efficient than current models.[6]Your exact energy savings will vary depending on the size of your home, the number and size of its windows, and other insulation measures present. Double-glazed windows will make a bigger impact on a property with large windows or not much other insulation.
[H2] Double glazing vs triple glazing: What’s the difference?
Triple glazing goes one step further than double-glazing, adding a third pane of glass into the window, separated by a spacer bar and with the tiny gaps filled with inert gas.Triple-glazing was first developed in the 1960s and 1970s in Scandinavian countries, where the winters are bitterly cold and governments have long pushed energy efficiency. But triple-glazing didn’t catch on in relatively balmy Britain until the 2010s when advances lowered the price of triple-paned windows and the government and consumers became more conscious of the carbon emissions of home heat.Then, just as it did in the 1970s, an energy crisis pushed more homeowners to install state-of-the-art windows. Since the 2021-23 natural gas crisis, Britons have been looking for more ways to make their home heat go further, including triple-glazing. While the government doesn’t have any hard data on how many UK homes have triple-glazing, glass manufacturers and builders report it’s increasingly common, especially in new builds designed for efficiency and carbon neutrality.How much better is triple glazing than simple double glazing? Double-glazed windows have a typical U-value, a measure of heat resistance, of 1.6, while triple-glazed windows achieve values of 0.8.[7] That means triple-glazed windows are 50% better at retaining heat than double-glazed windows.While they’re 50% better, triple-glazed windows only cost 10-20% more than double-glazing, making them a great investment, especially for people interested in future-proofing their home or living in colder regions of the country.[8]
[H2] Styles of double-glazed windows
Double glazing is available in windows of every style to suit personal preferences and the architectural design of your home.Popular window styles with double-glazed models available include:

[H3] Casement windows

The most popular style of double-glazed windows in the UK, casement windows are hinged on the side and open outwards. They may consist of a single pane of glass or multiple panes. A recent innovation is the flush casement window, which when closed sits flush within the frame. uPVC flush casement windows are the most energy-efficient on the market.

[H3] Sash windows

Sash windows are found in older homes, including Georgian, Victorian, and Edwardian properties, and consist of two panes of glass stacked on top of each other that slide vertically.

[H3] Georgian bar windows

Another popular choice for historic homes, Georgian bar windows are a type of sash window with up to six panes of glass, arranged in a grid. Most modern Georgian bar windows don’t actually have separate panes of glass but rather have astragal bars applied to the glazing on the inside and outside of the window to create the appearance of separate panes.

[H3] Tilt and turn windows

Tilt and turn windows have a dual-hinge system which allows them to open on two axes. They can tilt inward from the top or open outward like a casement window. They’re a popular choice for parents because they allow the window to be safely tilted at the top for ventilation with the handle child-locked.

[H3] Awning windows

Awning windows are a type of casement window hinged at the top and swing outwards, providing ventilation and blocking rain.

[H3] Bay and bow windows

Bay windows, extending outward from the main walls of the building, were a popular choice in many architectural periods, especially the Edwardian and Victorian eras. The windows in bays are set at angles and can easily be replaced with double-glazed casement, sash, or fixed windows. Bow windows are a smoothly curved variant of bay windows which can also be double-glazed. In the most elaborate bow windows, the glass itself is curved.

[H3] French windows

Also known as French doors, these windows open out on hinges, often leading to a garden or balcony.

[H3] Sliding doors

Consisting of large panes of glass that slide horizontally, sliding doors are popular in the rear of homes, providing access to a garden or patio.

[H3] Bi-fold doors

Bi-fold doors are another glass door option and are made of large panels of glass that fold up like a concertina. They maximise the door opening and can create a seamless transition between indoor and outdoor spaces.

[H3] Skylights

Skylights: Installed in the roof, these windows provide light and ventilation but also privacy. They’re often installed in bathrooms and lofts.

[H3] Fixed windows

Fixed windows: These windows don’t open and are ideal for places where you want light but don’t need ventilation. For instance, picture windows are large fixed windows without bars, usually paired with working casement or sash windows at the side.

[H2] Types of double-glazing materials
A variety of materials are used for the frame and glass of double-glazed windows, each with advantages and disadvantages.For frames, the most common materials are uPVC, aluminium, and timber:

uPVC or unplasticized polyvinyl chloride, is a popular affordable option. uPVC is itself insulating, further reducing heat loss from the window. It’s also durable: weather-proofed so it’s suitable for all climates and resistant to corrosion and rot so it doesn’t need to be treated or re-painted. uPVC windows are available in a variety of styles and colours, including faux wood. However, some people don’t like the look of uPVC, and the material, while recyclable, is not biodegradable.

Timber is the traditional choice for window frames and provides a classic look that some homeowners prefer and may be required in conservation areas. Wood window frames are thermally resistant but less durable than uPVC, requiring regular repainting or treating otherwise they may rot or warp. Timber-framed windows are more expensive but are an environmentally friendly choice, especially when the wood is sourced from sustainably managed forests.

Aluminium window frames are stylish, with thin black frames offering a contemporary, minimalist look while supporting large frames of glass. They’re also robust: resistant to rust and corrosion, especially when powder coated, and low maintenance. However, aluminium conducts heat and cold, which can create thermal bridging, reducing the thermal resistance of the window and causing condensation. The best aluminium windows have a thermal break between the internal and external window frames.

Double-glazed windows also used different types of glass, varying in their manufacture, coating, and the contents of the tiny gap between the panes:

Float glass

Also known as annealed glass, float glass is the most popular and affordable glass used in double-glazed windows but has less thermal resistance than other glass types.

Low-emissivity (low-E) glass

Low-E glass has a transparent metallic coating that reflects infrared radiation while letting light pass through, increasing thermal resistance and limiting the amount of UV that enters a home to reduce fading of furniture and carpet. It’s more expensive but pays for itself by being better insulating.

Tempered glass

Also known as toughened glass, tempered glass is a safety glass that’s treated to be four times stronger than float glass.[9] When it does break, it breaks into small, blunted pieces. It’s a good choice for large windows or areas at risk of impact, such as sliding doors.

Laminated glass

Another type of safety glass, laminated or multi-layered glass consists of two sheets of glass bonded with a transparent interlayer. That plastic interlayer doesn’t break and keeps the glass intact even if it shatters. Laminated glass is also good for sound insulation and a popular choice for windows that face busy roads. It also blocks UV radiation into a home.

Gas-filled glass

The gaps in some double-glazed windows are filled with inert gases rather than dehydrated air. These gases are denser than air, offering more thermal resistance. The most common cheapest gas used is argon. Krypton is more expensive but offers more thermal resistance, especially in narrow gaps such as in triple-glazed windows and in double-glazed windows in older homes that were designed to accommodate only single-pane windows. The most advanced windows use xenon gas, which is even more expensive and typically reserved for glass walls and large panes in commercial buildings.

[H2] How much do double-glazed windows cost?
The cost of double-glazed windows varies, depending on the style and size of the window and the frame and glass materials used.The cheapest option is a casement window with a uPVC frame and float glass, costing between £150 and £300 per window, before installation costs. Timber and aluminium frames increase costs, as do specialised glasses. The larger the window, the more expensive it’ll be.Typical costs for standard-sized casement and sash windows follow:
[H3] Casement windows
Float glassLow-e glassTempered glassGas-filled glassuPVC frame£150-£300/window£250-£400/window£250-£400/window£300-£450/windowTimber fram£300-£600/window£450-£750/window£450-£750/window£500-£800/windowAluminium frame£250-£500/window£350-600/window£350/£600/window£400-£700/window
[H3] Sash windows
Float glassLow-e glassTempered glassGas-filled glassuPVC frame£250-£500/window£350-£600/window£350-£600/window£400-£650/windowTimber fram£400-800/window£550-£1,000/window£500-£1,000/window£600-£1,100/windowAluminium frame£350-£600/window£450-800/window£450/£800/window£500-£900/windowYou’ll also need to pay for professional installation. For standard uPVC and timber windows, installers usually charge between £100-£250/window. For more complex installations, such as aluminium frame windows, sash windows, or large windows, you’ll pay £250-£400/window. Labour costs are higher in London and South East of England.The typical 3-bedroom home has 8 to 12 windows.[10] Installing uPVC-framed float glass double-glazed windows in such a property could cost between £2,000 and £4,800, including labour.If you have more complicated windows, choose timber or aluminium frames or specialist glass, the cost can easily exceed £10,000.
[H2] Are there any grants for double-glazed windows?
The government is committed to improving the energy efficiency of homes to meet the UK's decarbonisation targets and increase energy independence. Several grants and loans are available to fund home energy efficiency upgrades, including double-glazed windows and insulation.The fourth edition of the Energy Company Obligation (ECO), running until March 2026, requires large energy suppliers to fund home upgrades for homeowners and private tenants who claim certain income-based benefits and live in properties with EPC ratings of D or worse. Those upgrades may include double glazing.[11]In participating local authorities in England, the Home Upgrade Grant (HUG) funds free energy-saving improvements for low-income household